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Flavor-Enhancing Spoons and Chopsticks Could Make Food Taste Better

2023-01-11 08:27:05
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Foods high in sugar and salt can be unhealthy, but these additives are too delicious for many of us to give up or reduce in a big way. What if we could somehow enjoy their taste without actually eating them? A student team has now designed a spoon with a structure that stimulates taste buds to produce a sensation of sweetness—without adding calories or chemicals. The project follows previous work involving flavor-enhancing cutlery, such as chopsticks that amplify saltiness with a mild electric current.

The five undergraduate and graduate research students wanted to develop their new spoon, called Sugarware, for people with disorders such as diabetes, which affects 11.3 percent of the U.S. population. Sugar is largely off the menu for many with the condition.

The new spoon would have several bumps on its underside, creating a greater surface area to press against the tongue. The bumps can be covered with a permanent layer of molecules called ligands. These ligands bind with taste-cell surface receptor proteins that typically react to sugar molecules or artificial sweeteners. The binding can trigger a cascade of nerve signals, causing the brain to register a sensation of sweetness. A diner could thus “stimulate sweetness receptors ... without actual injection of sugar or artificial sweeteners,” the team explained during the 2022 Biodesign Sprint, an online educational competition in which researchers pitch ideas that can be turned into commercial realities. Sugarware won its designers the runner-up spot in the student category.

The student researchers cite two separate influences. “We got our design inspirations from a Korean designer, Jinhyun Jeon,” says Shiyu Xu, who was a graduate researcher in animal science at Cornell University when the project was developed. Jeon’s work on synesthesia has explored how the senses can affect one another while eating. In one piece, “She was using a similar kind of knobby spoon to experiment [with] how the eating experience can change and can get affected by those spoons,” says team member Weiran Tao, a graduate researcher at New York University.

Research by Jeon and others focuses on how textures influence taste perception, sometimes in unlikely and intriguing ways. For a past project, University of Oxford experimental psychologist Charles Spence, who is not involved in the Sugarware project, found that people who consumed ginger cookies, coffee or wine while rubbing sandpaper with their fingers rated the taste differently than when they rubbed a smooth surface. Spence says he is not sure about the reason, but “maybe the roughness of sandpaper matches with the pungency of ginger biscuits or the roughness in the mouth of black coffee.” Or, in the case of the new spoon, he suggests that “if the texture feels different from what you’re used to, then suddenly you sit up and take notice,” and that changes the experience.

Xu says the Sugarware team also looked at a Japanese study by Homei Miyashita of Meiji University and his colleagues that found ways to stimulate salt receptors in the tongue. With the company Kirin Holdings, Miyashita’s team developed specialized chopsticks: a weak electrical current runs through this novel cutlery, shifting the sodium ions in a mouthful of food to excite the tongue’s salt receptors. The researchers reported that their chopsticks could increase diners’ perception of salt by up to one and half times. A U.S. company, Taste Boosters, takes a similar microcurrent-based approach to designing a utensil called SpoonTEK.

These ideas are similar to Sugarware in that they all use utensils to enhance taste without a user having to actually consume any salt or sugar. “But the mechanism for stimulating the taste buds is completely different in Sugarware,” Xu says: it uses texture and taste-bud-stimulating molecules rather than electricity.

Besides salt and sugar, the Sugarware researchers were also interested in reducing the need for artificial sweeteners. These compounds are integrated into many foods and “consumed by hundreds of millions worldwide with the notion that they generate the sweetest sensation without having the caloric price,” says Eran Elinav, a microbiome researcher at Israel’s Weizmann Institute of Science, who is not involved with the student project. But these chemicals do have an effect on the body. In 2014 Elinav’s team had mice consume the artificial sweetener saccharin and found that the rodents’ gut microbiome did interact with the sweetener. “These interactions counterintuitively resulted in worsening of [the animals’] glycemic response,” a mechanism that affects conditions that include diabetes, Elinav adds. Other research has demonstrated that humans who consume some sugar substitutes also experience changes in the gut microbiome, as well as spikes in blood glucose. “Artificial sweeteners are clearly not inert in the human body,” Elinav says. Because Sugarware would stimulate a sweetness reaction without requiring users to consume anything, it might be able to sidestep the issue of glycemic response.

The idea is “very creative,” says one of the Biodesign Sprint judges, Paola de Almeida, who is global director of corporate innovation at candy maker Mars. But the product’s commercial success would require a significant behavioral shift among consumers: instead of adding the usual sugar or artificial sweeteners, “now we’re saying, ‘Use this utensil,’” de Almeida says.

It remains to be seen whether flavor-enhancing utensils will catch on. The Japanese team does not plan to commercialize its electric chopsticks until later this year, and the Sugarware researchers are still working on a prototype. Part of their contest prize includes a mentorship from Mars staff.

But if you want to play around with cutlery and flavor right now, you don’t need specially designed forks or knives. Previous research shows that the weight, color and shape of normal utensils can change how we perceive food’s taste. So grab a variety of cutlery and hold an independent taste test. You may find some spoons are sweeter than others, even if they’re bump-free.

参考译文
调味勺和筷子可以让食物更美味
高糖和高盐食品可能对健康有害,但对我们许多人来说,这些调味品太过美味,难以彻底放弃或大幅减少摄入。如果我们能以某种方式享受到它们的味道,而不需要真的吃下它们,那会怎么样呢?如今,一个学生团队设计出了一款勺子,其结构能够刺激味蕾,从而产生甜味的感觉——而无需添加热量或化学物质。这一项目延续了此前关于增强风味餐具的研究,例如通过微弱电流增强咸味的筷子。该项目由五名本科生和研究生研究员共同发起,他们希望为糖尿病等疾病患者开发这种名为Sugarware的新勺子。糖尿病影响了美国11.3%的人口,对许多患者而言,糖已基本不在饮食清单之上。这款新勺子的底部有几个凸起,从而增加了与舌头接触的表面积。这些凸起可覆盖一层永久的分子层,称为配体(ligands)。这些配体能够与味觉细胞表面的受体蛋白结合,而这些受体蛋白通常对糖分子或人工甜味剂作出反应。这种结合可以触发一系列神经信号,使大脑感知到甜味。团队成员在2022年Biodesign Sprint线上教育竞赛中解释道:“这样,用餐者就能‘刺激甜味受体……而无需真正摄入糖或人工甜味剂’。”Sugarware在学生组中获得了亚军。该学生团队表示,他们的设计灵感来源于两个方面。项目负责人之一、当时在康奈尔大学动物科学研究生项目的许诗雨表示:“我们的设计灵感来自韩国设计师金炫俊(Jinhyun Jeon)。”金炫俊曾研究联觉现象,探索人们在进食过程中感官之间如何相互影响。团队成员之一、纽约大学的研究生陶伟然表示:“她曾使用一种类似的凸起勺子进行实验,探索用餐体验如何因勺子的改变而变化。”金炫俊和其他人的研究集中于质地如何影响味觉感知,有时是以出人意料且引人深思的方式。在一项过去的研究中,牛津大学的实验心理学家查尔斯·斯宾塞(Charles Spence)发现,人们在用手指摩擦砂纸的同时食用姜饼、咖啡或葡萄酒时,对味道的评价与他们在摩擦光滑表面时不同。斯宾塞说他并不确定原因,但“也许砂纸的粗糙感与姜饼的辛辣感,或黑咖啡在口腔中的粗糙感相呼应。”或者,就如这款新勺子一样,他建议说:“如果质地与你的预期不同,你会突然意识到,而这种意识的改变会改变用餐体验。”许诗雨表示,Sugarware团队还参考了明治大学的广井美也(Homei Miyashita)及其同事在日本进行的一项研究,该研究找到了刺激舌头盐味受体的方法。与麒麟控股公司合作,广井团队开发了一种特殊筷子:一种微弱的电流流过这种创新餐具,使食物中的钠离子兴奋舌头的盐味受体。研究人员报告称,他们的筷子可以将用餐者对咸味的感知提高至原来的1.5倍。一家美国公司Taste Boosters则采用了基于微电流的类似方法,开发了一种名为SpoonTEK的餐具。这些想法与Sugarware类似,它们都通过餐具增强味觉,而用户无需实际摄入盐或糖。“但在Sugarware中,刺激味蕾的机制是完全不同的,”许诗雨表示,它使用的是质地和刺激味蕾的分子,而不是电流。除了减少盐和糖的摄入,Sugarware团队还希望减少对人工甜味剂的依赖。以色列魏茨曼科学研究所的微生物组研究员埃兰·埃利纳夫(Eran Elinav)指出,这些化合物被广泛地加入许多食品之中,“全球数亿人认为它们能带来甜味感,但不会带来热量负担。”但这些化学物质确实对人体有影响。2014年,埃利纳夫的团队让小鼠摄入人工甜味剂糖精,结果发现小鼠的肠道微生物组与甜味剂产生了相互作用。“这种相互作用非但没有帮助,反而令人意外地加剧了小鼠的血糖反应,”埃利纳夫补充道,这种机制会影响包括糖尿病在内的多种疾病。其他研究还表明,人类摄入某些糖替代品后,也会出现肠道微生物组的变化以及血糖飙升。“人工甜味剂在人体内显然并非无害。”埃利纳夫说。由于Sugarware可以通过刺激甜味反应而不需要用户摄入任何物质,因此它可能会避开血糖反应的问题。Biodesign Sprint竞赛的一位评委、糖果公司Mars的全球企业创新总监保拉·德阿尔梅达(Paola de Almeida)表示,这个想法“非常有创意”。但这款产品的商业成功需要消费者行为的重大转变:不再添加普通的糖或人工甜味剂,而是“现在我们说‘请使用这种餐具’”。德阿尔梅达说道。目前,尚不清楚增强风味的餐具是否会受到市场欢迎。日本团队计划在今年晚些时候才将他们的电筷子商业化,而Sugarware团队仍在开发原型。他们的比赛奖品之一包括由Mars公司员工提供的指导。但如果你想现在就尝试一下餐具与风味之间的关系,你不需要特别设计的叉子或刀子。以往的研究表明,普通餐具的重量、颜色和形状可以改变我们对食物味道的感知。所以,拿几套不同的餐具,进行一次独立的品尝测试吧。你可能会发现,即使没有凸起,有些勺子确实比其他勺子更“甜”。
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